You could. However, there are several reasons why this is not suggested.

1) First and foremost and before you proceed with either fungicide or fertilizer, make sure the SOIL PH is okay. When your PH gets out of balance, things tend to go wrong with the grass and other plants. Since you're wanting to apply a fungicide, it sounds like you may already have a problem. And if you do, start with making sure the PH is in check.

2) Since fertilizer can "feed" a fungus, it's always best to do the fungicide treatment first, before any fertilizer, to make sure you don't enhance the fungus. Now if you're only applying a fungicide as a preventive treatment, don't worry; both can be done at the same time. But if you have active fungus growing, treat for it first waiting at least a few days to let the granules get activated and then you can proceed to using the fertilizer.

So in summary, if you treat with granular fungicide and water it in within a day, you can apply some fertilizer as early as 3 days later and not worry about "helping" any existing fungus already established. Here are direct links to the information mentioned above:

Soil PH Control: http://www.soil-ph.com/soil-ph

Lawn Fungus Article: http://www.bugspray.com/article/fungus.html

I purchased a pint of Honor Guard and a pH meter from Bugspray.com and had a question regarding the mixing process of the Honor Guard.

I have a 2-gallon pump sprayer and if I'm reading the directions correctly, I should mix 1-ounce of Honor Guard to 1-gallon of water?

Also, should I apply any type of fertilizer to help the lawn recovery? The pH was good according to the meter I purchased.

Thanks for you help and I found your website very helpful.

If you look carefully a the HONOR GUARD LABEL, you'll find it requires 1-2 oz of product for every 1,000 sq/ft of turf you want to treat when trying to control active brown patch. As we explain in our LAWN FUNGUS CONTROL ARTICLE, it's always best to treat the largest area possible in the yard when spraying. By killing making sure you control the fungus in more of an area than you see it, you stand a better chance of long term success. Spot treating rarely works so don't focus just where you see the damage; brown patch is no doubt active in other areas and these need to be treated as well.

Since you've tested the PH and it sounds like it's Okay, you may proceed with an application confident the treatment will have a good chance of success. Regarding the water quantity to mix the 1-2 oz of Honor Guard; it can be 1-3 gallons of water as long as you spray the end amount (finished spray mix) over 1000 sq/ft of turf. This way if you generally use 2 gallons of water to spray 1000 sq/ft of grass, I'd say mix the 1-2 oz of Honor Guard with this much water. But if you're confident you can get good coverage with just 1 gallon of water, then using 1-2 oz in this lesser amount of water will work too. Again, the key here is getting the right amount of active Honor Guard out over the 1000 sq/ft and not so much the amount of water involved. For obvious reasons it could require more water to treat some types of grass which is why flexible water quantities are fine.

Lastly, I suggest treating once at 2 oz per 1000 sq/ft to make sure you've killed the brown patch. Follow up 7-10 days later with a 1 oz per 1000 sq/ft treatment and at that point the brown patch should be dead. You can then proceed with some fertilizing following the guidelines we have explained in our FERTILIZING ARTICLE.

Here are direct links to the information posted above:

http://www.bugspray.net/labels/honor_guard_label.pdf

http://www.bugspray.com/article/fungus.html

http://www.grass-greener.com/fertilizer-control-for-greener-grass

jonathan

www.bugspray.com

1-800-877-7290

Thanks J.

Most fungus problems in the yard will show themselves in the summer as explained in our LAWN FUNGUS CONTROL article. Here in Atlanta, you'd be best served by treating when conditions are most active. This can happen as early as April and as late as October. By November, we're almost always too cool and too dry though this year has been quite moist. Still, I don't see any real benefit that can be had by treating now so I say wait till next year.

However, there are two other "maintenance" concerns I have which most definitely need to be monitored and could have a big impact in your yard. Getting these "right" now would go a long way to ensure your zoysia has it's best chance of defeating the fungus next year. In most all cases, lawns become susceptible to fungus, insects and weeds when the soil under the grass gets out of whack. As our SOIL PH CONTROL article explains, the most important thing you can do for your soil is to keep it at the balanced PH level. Only then will everything else you do have a chance to work properly. November through February is the best time to adjust this PH if it's unbalanced. If you haven't been monitoring this level, now is a great time to start. Get a good PH METER and thoroughly check the soil. Make sure it's up around 7.0 and if not, now is time to get it adjusted using one of the products listed in our article.

The second major problem we see here in town in our lawns is related to grubs. They commonly infest most any turf and one of the more common "symptoms" of a grub infestation is when you see grass "browning" in patches that resemble a fungus. Have you been doing any treatments to keep them minimized? Read our GRUB CONTROL article and if you haven't recently treated, do so now. Winter is a good time to apply granules to the turf and get this problem corrected so come next spring, you'll have the best chance at keeping lawn fungus under wraps.

In summary, don't worry about treating your zoysia now as we move to the winter months here in Atlanta. What does makes sense is to check your PH and get that in check. Additionally, it's a good time to treat for grubs. Take care of these concerns now, from November through February and by next March, you should be all set to deal with any lawn fungus that shows up in April or May.

Absolutely. We have LIQUID FERTILIZER which can be pumped through the irrigation system and done automatically. Use our IN LINE SIPHON SPRAYER to enable the system to "draw" fertilizer when in use.

First, all our LAWN FUNGICIDES are pet safe when used properly. Take the time to watch our "concentrate safety video" which you can find on our PRODUCT SAFETY VIDEO PAGE. The first video near the top of the page discusses how to properly store, handle and apply any concentrate we carry. You should find all the answers to your questions in this presentation including discussion on how to treat where pets will be active. If you are still concerned or have more questions, give us a call toll free at 1.800.877.7290.

And product 953329, which is LIQUID DACONIL, will work on Brown Patch. If you have a small area to treat, this should handle the job fine. If you have a large lawn, consider one of the larger sizes as this will prove to be most economical in the long run.

Additionally, be sure your SOIL PH is in balance before beginning any treatment routine. As explained in our SOIL PH CONTROL ARTICLE, this is a huge problem that many people don't know even exists. One of the most common variables that will lead to lawn fungus is a soil PH that is low. Once you are sure you're PH is Ok, then you can proceed with treatments knowing full well your effort will provide good results.

Dogs urinating and deficating in the yard will cause burn spots to appear on your grass. These spots are a sign that something acidic was present and dog urine falls into this category.

First, be sure your soil is Ok PH wise. As explained in our SOIL PH CONTROL article, dogs and other animals active in most any yard will cause it to drop in PH which in turn can lead to many other common problems. If you haven't tested your PH recently, we strongly advise you get a PH METER and start keeping track of this vital component critical to good turf management.

Once you are sure you're PH is Ok, you may proceed with fertilizing, insect control and TLC treatments such as that provided with some LAWN GREEN applications. Ideally suited for masking burn spots and other small unsightly areas of the yard, LAWN GREEN and YARD SMART are easy to use and can be adjusted to match most any color turf.

First and foremost, the most important thing you can do first is to check your PH. As explained in our PH CONTROL ARTICLE, an improper PH will many times prevent grass from using fertilizer properly which in turn can lead to fungus and other turf problems.

Once you know the PH is 6.5-7.0, you should first try to identify just which kind of fungus you have active. Some fungus, like Dollar Spot, tends to thrive in yards with a low PH and low nitrogen levels. Brown Patch tends to thrive in lawns with low PH and high nitrogen. More about this can be found in our LAWN FUNGUS CONTROL ARTICLE but for the most part, an abundance of nitrogen should only be a problem if in fact you have done just that: over applied or put out too much fertilizer. Since most any fertilizer label has recommended amounts to be used, it can be determined if you have over applied or not as explained in our FERTILIZER EXPLAINED ARTICLE.

So to answer your question, since only a few lawn fungus problems are associated with too much Nitrogen, it's not likely that this is the reason for the problem. That means you should be able to apply both at the same time with no major problem or consequence. However, if you believe you have overdone the fertilizer applied during the past 2 months, applying the fungicide first and then following up in a 3-5 days with the LIQUID FERTILIZER would be the best way to go.

Good luck and green grass to you and yours!!

The type of fertilizer you use can impact your grass. If you're not happy about how your grass is growing, I suggest you review our online article about GREENER GRASS to see if you can identify something you need to do. Though fertilizer is important, you must first start with a proper SOIL PH. Once you're certain that's Ok, proceed to the fertilizing options.

You'll see we do have some LIQUID FERTILIZER listed and in fact it does work quite well. You might want to get a small amount and try using it on a section of your turf to see if you like how it performs. As we explain in our on line article about fertilizing, Liquid Fertilizer does require more work than traditional granule forms. For this reason it's the best choice for everyone. If you learn it's something you don't mind applying all summer long, I'm sure you'll be happy with it's performance and learn that liquid fertilizing is in fact a great way to get the most visual reward from your turf.

First, I suggest you read our on line FERTILIZER CONTROL article which explains all you really need to know about how to keep your grass looking great.

Second, be sure to check the PH as explained in the above article; if the PH is wrong, you won't stand a chance at getting a nice yard. SOIL PH CONTROL is one of the biggest reasons people fail in getting the results they want when it comes to their yard.

Lastly, understand that every yard is different and though they all need nitrogen, the amount and best time to apply it are things that are only learned over time. By working on your yard year in and year out, you should be able to figure out a schedule that will include PH control, insect control and fungus control. By keeping these in check you should be able to regulate the fertilizer and grow nice green grass. But this will take some time. In most cases, it will take a good 2 years for people to get the end result where they want it and ultimately will depend on how much time you devote and how much water you have available. Unlimited chemicals and time won't help if you don't have water!!

I am considering the use of 8 gallons of your Lawn Green Spray and your sprayer.  I want to suggest using this on a condo lawn to save money on gardeners and water.  I intend to cut the lawn short, stop the watering until it turns brown and is completely dry.  Then I would apply your product at a rate of 1 gal per 500 feet.

My question is:  How long will this treatment last?  I am living in Phoenix, Arizona, with summer temperatures in the 100 + range daily.  I won't hold you to any figure, but, I would appreciate your experience with the product in hot areas of the U.S.

Our GREEN LAWN PAINT will typically last 20-40 days. In dry climates, it's usually lasts longer than here, in the Southeast due mostly to the excessive rain we can get. I would say to expect 30 days and if it lasts longer, adjust treatments as you see fit.